The bus trip to Paxse from Thakhek to Paxse was a cruel joke played by the cosmic clown on me. I had thought I was going in air conditioned luxury. This turned out to be a shagged out local bus with broken seats and no leg room at all. Apparently the VIP bus was broken. If it was broken then I'm not sure what could have happened to it because the replacement was in a parlous state. I think it must have burnt to the ground to qualify for "broken". Anyway I prefer to put these little trials behind me and focus on the good things.
Paxse is a great base for exploring the south. My hotel is good. My first night was in the VIP suite due to a booking cock up. I had a discounted price and enjoyed Air con and huge TV all night. In the morning I moved into a small airless Fan room that was much cheaper (60,000 kip). I also hired a bike for three days and headed off to Champasak and Wat Phu ( pronounced "Poo") . The trip to involved a "ferry" ride across the Mekong. This was quite spectacular in that the ferry was two canoes joined in the center by a sort of deck and powered by the ubiquitous Honda standing motor and a bloody long screw. The motor bike and I perched on the deck like a pimple on a childs face.
Champasak is a totally lovely town spread out along the river like a thin coating of butter. Tranquil guesthouses nestle on the river bank with the occasional resteraunt and temple or school. There are a couple of very impressive french mansions that loom over everything around them and suggest of luxury in days gone past. All in all a place to revisit and chill for a while.
Wat Phu is my first Khmer temple and it is very impressive in an understated way. It is very old (5th century) and its location is magnificent. The views from the temple itself are boggling. The temple is the understated bit in that it is not overly large. The whole site however is huge as only Khmer sites can be. It climbs up the foothills of a large mountain (in English it translates as Penis mountain after the natural Lingam on the summit) to an altitude of 100m above the plain. On the plain are two huge Barays, large water reservoirs. They represent the oceans and the mountain represents the sacred mountain. On top where the temple is, there is a sacred spring that provides water for the temple Lingam. I put my head in the flow of the water and "bathed" in the sacred waters. I don't feel any more sacred! But certainly I felt cooler. The whole experience was great for me. I'm looking forward to Angkor.
Back in Pakse I had a massage that really hurt! If someone recommends a Lao massage either run away or hit them with a large piece of wood. They do not wish you well. I'm hoping that it will do me good in the long run. It's a bit like bashing your head against a brick wall. It feels really good when you stop!
I ate dinner tonight at the Indian resteraunt across the road from my hotel. I've eaten there ever since I arrived and have enjoyed each meal. This mornings Masala Dosa was the first I have had in 37 years and it did not disappoint. If only they did Murtabaks. Tonight is was a Rogan Gosh, a butter Naan and a fruit and veg curry. Delicious.
Tomorrow I go to the Boleven Plateau for 2 days and then it's the 4 thousand islands. Things are picking up speed as I hurtle toward the end of this sojourn. I wonder how I'll feel at the finish?
Tuesday, 31 January 2012
Saturday, 28 January 2012
Looping the Loop
Wow I have just come back from three days of extreme experiences. I and the three women I had met up north (Emily, Erica and Sandra) with a fourth bloke from Uruguay (Pablo) traveled by hire Motorbike around a route known to the backpacker world as "The Loop". It was fantastic. It tested all the senses, particularly those around your butt, the flabby bits that is. The emphasis being the more you have the less painful it will be. I have quite a lot but I still hurt at the end. It is the kind of stiffness that you don't mind though as a shower removes most of the worst and the sights you see on the way more than make up for any inconvenience.
The journey started with a short blast out of Thakhek to the first cave (elephant cave). This was accessed by a short dirt road to a tiny village and then a bit of rough work across a creek and through some sandy bits. The cave was OK but not overwhelming in a "far out" way. The Elephant was not overly impressive. The surrounds and the school kids more than made up for it.
Back on the road we made another short Blast and then to the next cave (Tham Xieng Lieb cave) which was much more impressive. Here we had an eager Dad and two young boys who directed us along a well marked trail to a cave with a river flowing out of it. We were able to clamber into the cave mouth where Erica and Emily who were more eager took off their boots and donned thongs for a wade through the river to the other side of the cave with a beautiful beach and very nice scenes of forest and "jungle".
Back again on the road we made a long run to Nakai some 40 odd Kms along the road . The views on either side of Kharst mountains was arresting to say the least. Many a time I had to correct myself as I drifted across the road mesmerised by the sights in my perifery. We ate lunch (at about 2pm) at Nakai and then headed off for our night stop at Tha Long. The road at this point took a turn for the worse. It went from bitumen to dirt and quite bad dirt at that. Speed was cut to about 10 to 15kph. The best bit of the road being right on the side where usually people walk. Pot holes were a usual occurrence. The scenery changed dramatically to one of desolation on each side. The building of a dam had created a huge freshwater sea flooding a drowning the forest. On either side were views of dead trees standing in the water like shy swimmers waiting for the water to become warm enough to dive into. It was strangely beautiful in a weird sort of way.
Tha Long was a tiny village with 2 guesthouses. Ours was really sweet with stunning views of the lake. Emily and I went for a walk out onto the bridge for a Beer Lao and the sunset. Very nice but not as good as Luang Prabang. The guesthouse had a fire to sit around in the evening and this we did until dinner was ready. It was nice to sit and share stories with my companions.
The next morning we set off for the 60Km run to Lak Sao, At this point the road began to deteriorate at an alarming rate, to the point of almost ridiculousness. By the time we reached the jungle section it had become a series of enormous pot holes that you bounced into and out of like a demented roller coaster. Even the side of the road became the same as the middle as the pot holes straddled the entire road. One could quite easily disappear into one for some while before re-emerging like a breaching submarine. The fact that we could only go at snails pace was OK though because the view on either side was amazing. Thick dense jungle, impenetrable unless you followed an animal trail, not that you'd want to here because there are wild animals that can eat you.
After the jungle section the road got worse! I thought the bikes would not cope with the strain. The punishment being extreme. In addition to the Bumps was the dust. It was enveloping and my beard felt like it was made of hessian sacking. Lak Sao was a pleasing if unattractive respite. A rough frontier town populated with what seemed to be Vietnamese mafia, we stayed long enough to have a lovely lunch in a huge Resteraunt oddly named "the Only Resteraunt".
Back on the road it was a significant relief to be on tar again. We buzzed along at a dizzying rate of 80 Kph. Top speed for these little bikes. The scenery on either side was back to Kharst mountains of awesome proportions. We made very good time and roared into Na Hin or Khoun Kham just before sunset. This allowed us to blast along the road to Kong Lor with the last rays of sun. It was incredible to roar along a very straight road between impossible mountains with shapes out of some science fiction novel. I wouldn't say inspiring, but don't have any other words that come to mind. Our accommodation was again a very nice even intimate guest house. We were all so exhausted that we had a couple of glasses of Beer Lao and crawled off to our various beds. I had a very nice double bed that was as hard as I have had so far. I was so stiff I think it did me good.
Next day we were up very early and off to the Kong Lor cave at sparrows fart. The cave is amazing. It is 7.5 Km long and has a river flowing right through it that is navigable by flat bottomed boat. Locals from the village on the other side of the mountain use it for transport. Of course so do the tourists. After negotiating the tickets and our obligatory life jackets we boarded long thin boats inside the mouth of the cave and set off into the darkness. The darkness it should be said is complete. There is no source of light except from the torches of the boatman and his assistant up front. I had a head light but it was paltry by comparison. We stopped for a walk around a section of the cave that was interesting but not spectacular. There were some stalactites and stalagmites but they were no match to Jenolan caves so I kept quiet. Back on the boat the next 5 km was fantastic. The shadows cast by the boatman's lights were surreal. At one point our shadows were thrown upon a wall, it looked like ghosts following us. I would get glimpses of rock formations that were mind boggling. Huge galleries, vaulted roofs. I felt I was in a chapter of Lord of the Rings or the Hobbit. It was almost as if Gollem was watching from a ledge high above and the ghosts of Moria everywhere!
After about 45 minutes we came out of the cave and into the sunlight. The boat pulled into a landing and we got out while the boatman emptied out the boat. It was quite full of water! We had gone over a couple of places where we had to get out and drag the boat over pebbled banks and little (tiny) waterfalls. This must take a toll on the bottom of the boats. It clearly did to ours as it was trying bravely to sink under us. We sat around at the landing for about 15 minutes until the boatman realised we were not going to buy anything at the myriad of stalls there in the forest and then it was back into the boat and back into the cave for the run back. Just as awe inspiring as before we motored through the darkness getting wetter from the constant bailing by the boatman. Scrabbling out to get over the various obstacles, finally we were back to the start. I loved it.
In front of the cave the river formed a very large pool that was crystal clear and very inviting. I got into my swimmers and went in. Ah the serenity! It was the best thing since sliced bread. I was in heaven. The only thing that was missing was Meri my partner. Of the rest of the gang the only other swimmer was Emily who also enjoyed the peace of it all. We dried off and I had a noodle soup for lunch.
The afternoon was taken up with a headlong dash back to Thakhek for sunset which we missed by all of 5 minutes. All in all it was a journey not to be missed. If one is traveling in this area you would be mad and a danger to yourself to miss this experience. I thoroughly recommend every inch. One memory fast in my mind is of a lookout after Kong Lor on the way to highway 13 along route 8. It was of these amazing kharsts. It looked like someone had broken the earth like a bottle. Extremely jagged peaks lay in front of us as far as the eye could see. It was fantastic.
I am now in Thakhek waiting for the bus to Paxse tomorrow at 8:30. My washing is being done and I've nothing else to do except go and see a few sights before I leave. I have just said good bye to the most wonderful of friends I have met in a long while. I have shared my life with them for the last couple of weeks and I am a bit/very sad to have seen them go. I hope I will see them again before I leave. I know I will see them again sometime in my life (maybe in Australia). I still miss them though and I will be sad for a little more when I remember our times shared. Love you angels all.
Back to the road Lionel. One more adventure, another day. It is Sunday the 29th of January today. I have 14 days left to get to Paxse, the Boleven plateau, Champasak, 4 thousand Islands (Si Phan Don) and Siem Reap before I board that silver bird to Australia and home.
The journey started with a short blast out of Thakhek to the first cave (elephant cave). This was accessed by a short dirt road to a tiny village and then a bit of rough work across a creek and through some sandy bits. The cave was OK but not overwhelming in a "far out" way. The Elephant was not overly impressive. The surrounds and the school kids more than made up for it.
Back on the road we made another short Blast and then to the next cave (Tham Xieng Lieb cave) which was much more impressive. Here we had an eager Dad and two young boys who directed us along a well marked trail to a cave with a river flowing out of it. We were able to clamber into the cave mouth where Erica and Emily who were more eager took off their boots and donned thongs for a wade through the river to the other side of the cave with a beautiful beach and very nice scenes of forest and "jungle".
Back again on the road we made a long run to Nakai some 40 odd Kms along the road . The views on either side of Kharst mountains was arresting to say the least. Many a time I had to correct myself as I drifted across the road mesmerised by the sights in my perifery. We ate lunch (at about 2pm) at Nakai and then headed off for our night stop at Tha Long. The road at this point took a turn for the worse. It went from bitumen to dirt and quite bad dirt at that. Speed was cut to about 10 to 15kph. The best bit of the road being right on the side where usually people walk. Pot holes were a usual occurrence. The scenery changed dramatically to one of desolation on each side. The building of a dam had created a huge freshwater sea flooding a drowning the forest. On either side were views of dead trees standing in the water like shy swimmers waiting for the water to become warm enough to dive into. It was strangely beautiful in a weird sort of way.
Tha Long was a tiny village with 2 guesthouses. Ours was really sweet with stunning views of the lake. Emily and I went for a walk out onto the bridge for a Beer Lao and the sunset. Very nice but not as good as Luang Prabang. The guesthouse had a fire to sit around in the evening and this we did until dinner was ready. It was nice to sit and share stories with my companions.
The next morning we set off for the 60Km run to Lak Sao, At this point the road began to deteriorate at an alarming rate, to the point of almost ridiculousness. By the time we reached the jungle section it had become a series of enormous pot holes that you bounced into and out of like a demented roller coaster. Even the side of the road became the same as the middle as the pot holes straddled the entire road. One could quite easily disappear into one for some while before re-emerging like a breaching submarine. The fact that we could only go at snails pace was OK though because the view on either side was amazing. Thick dense jungle, impenetrable unless you followed an animal trail, not that you'd want to here because there are wild animals that can eat you.
After the jungle section the road got worse! I thought the bikes would not cope with the strain. The punishment being extreme. In addition to the Bumps was the dust. It was enveloping and my beard felt like it was made of hessian sacking. Lak Sao was a pleasing if unattractive respite. A rough frontier town populated with what seemed to be Vietnamese mafia, we stayed long enough to have a lovely lunch in a huge Resteraunt oddly named "the Only Resteraunt".
Back on the road it was a significant relief to be on tar again. We buzzed along at a dizzying rate of 80 Kph. Top speed for these little bikes. The scenery on either side was back to Kharst mountains of awesome proportions. We made very good time and roared into Na Hin or Khoun Kham just before sunset. This allowed us to blast along the road to Kong Lor with the last rays of sun. It was incredible to roar along a very straight road between impossible mountains with shapes out of some science fiction novel. I wouldn't say inspiring, but don't have any other words that come to mind. Our accommodation was again a very nice even intimate guest house. We were all so exhausted that we had a couple of glasses of Beer Lao and crawled off to our various beds. I had a very nice double bed that was as hard as I have had so far. I was so stiff I think it did me good.
Next day we were up very early and off to the Kong Lor cave at sparrows fart. The cave is amazing. It is 7.5 Km long and has a river flowing right through it that is navigable by flat bottomed boat. Locals from the village on the other side of the mountain use it for transport. Of course so do the tourists. After negotiating the tickets and our obligatory life jackets we boarded long thin boats inside the mouth of the cave and set off into the darkness. The darkness it should be said is complete. There is no source of light except from the torches of the boatman and his assistant up front. I had a head light but it was paltry by comparison. We stopped for a walk around a section of the cave that was interesting but not spectacular. There were some stalactites and stalagmites but they were no match to Jenolan caves so I kept quiet. Back on the boat the next 5 km was fantastic. The shadows cast by the boatman's lights were surreal. At one point our shadows were thrown upon a wall, it looked like ghosts following us. I would get glimpses of rock formations that were mind boggling. Huge galleries, vaulted roofs. I felt I was in a chapter of Lord of the Rings or the Hobbit. It was almost as if Gollem was watching from a ledge high above and the ghosts of Moria everywhere!
After about 45 minutes we came out of the cave and into the sunlight. The boat pulled into a landing and we got out while the boatman emptied out the boat. It was quite full of water! We had gone over a couple of places where we had to get out and drag the boat over pebbled banks and little (tiny) waterfalls. This must take a toll on the bottom of the boats. It clearly did to ours as it was trying bravely to sink under us. We sat around at the landing for about 15 minutes until the boatman realised we were not going to buy anything at the myriad of stalls there in the forest and then it was back into the boat and back into the cave for the run back. Just as awe inspiring as before we motored through the darkness getting wetter from the constant bailing by the boatman. Scrabbling out to get over the various obstacles, finally we were back to the start. I loved it.
In front of the cave the river formed a very large pool that was crystal clear and very inviting. I got into my swimmers and went in. Ah the serenity! It was the best thing since sliced bread. I was in heaven. The only thing that was missing was Meri my partner. Of the rest of the gang the only other swimmer was Emily who also enjoyed the peace of it all. We dried off and I had a noodle soup for lunch.
The afternoon was taken up with a headlong dash back to Thakhek for sunset which we missed by all of 5 minutes. All in all it was a journey not to be missed. If one is traveling in this area you would be mad and a danger to yourself to miss this experience. I thoroughly recommend every inch. One memory fast in my mind is of a lookout after Kong Lor on the way to highway 13 along route 8. It was of these amazing kharsts. It looked like someone had broken the earth like a bottle. Extremely jagged peaks lay in front of us as far as the eye could see. It was fantastic.
I am now in Thakhek waiting for the bus to Paxse tomorrow at 8:30. My washing is being done and I've nothing else to do except go and see a few sights before I leave. I have just said good bye to the most wonderful of friends I have met in a long while. I have shared my life with them for the last couple of weeks and I am a bit/very sad to have seen them go. I hope I will see them again before I leave. I know I will see them again sometime in my life (maybe in Australia). I still miss them though and I will be sad for a little more when I remember our times shared. Love you angels all.
Back to the road Lionel. One more adventure, another day. It is Sunday the 29th of January today. I have 14 days left to get to Paxse, the Boleven plateau, Champasak, 4 thousand Islands (Si Phan Don) and Siem Reap before I board that silver bird to Australia and home.
Monday, 23 January 2012
A very strange trip down memory lane
I should have known that when I saw the sign for Highway Thirteen that this would be one of those more interesting trips. It all started with the bus trip to get the bus for the trip. The vehicle was one of those "Sawngthaew"s but a big one. I was the only one in it until 5 young Americans climbed in. They dawdled and fucked around so much that both the driver and I got mightily pissed off. I then had to endure their conversations until we reached the rendezvous with the VIP bus to Thakhek. Sometimes there are people that for reasons completely unknown make you want to jump up and throttle them. In this case I knew the reasons. They were self opinionated, brash, loud and incredibly insensitive. The archetypal stereotype. But these guys were not stereotypes they were very real and the shite coming from their lips had me sitting there fuming, holding back some very nasty and provocative statements. Fortunately I was able to curb my more aggressive tendencies.
The main bus trip more than made up for the unpleasantness of the preliminaries. The view on either side started with very flat and dry agricultural lands with hints of big round mountains/hills to my left (East). After about 2 hours we began to see in front of us some even more impressive hills. Finally as the sun was setting we had some scenes of spectacular kharsts that made my mind go into excitement drive at the thought of riding through them in a few days. All the while this was happening there was the entertainment on board! There was a television screen up front that at first had this Laotian Wayne Newton clone (if you have ever seen Wayne Newton you'll know exactly what I mean if not I am very sorry. The image however is shlocking he is fat and chubby with oiled hair buffont style). Anyway this chap was crooning away Laotian pop ABBA style. Every once in a while he would wave his arms around in a wimpish fashion. It was very amusing. After this there was a french film dubbed in Lao which was full of gratuitous violence and mayhem. It was so OTT that you had to laugh. The two Bhuddist priests in front of me were in fits. After this I put on my headphones and finished the journey to the sounds of Ben Harper, John Butler trio, The Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Green Day - "Don't want to be and American Idiot" - can't think why not.
Arrival at Thakhek was the usual struggle to find the tuk tuk of choice and price and to find a hotel. This accomplished, I walked down to the river bank to call back the ghosts of 75'. Boy I got it in spades! You could see clearly the temple Danny and I were standing in front of all those years ago. The spades came with lots of explosions all around me. People were letting off very big firecrackers for Tet/Chinese New Year. The first loud bang transfixed me to the spot. Was I somehow travelling back in time? Had my addled brain done the biggest flashback ever with the cruel twist that I was now on the wrong side of the river? Reality flooded back in with more explosions. These were definitely happy bangs as they were accompanied by laughter and squeals of the kids. I wondered over to a small resteraunt and sat for dinner. I was served by the cutest little Laotian girl. She would have been all of 10 years old. She was dressed in a classic little girl party dress, all frills and ruffles and ribbons. She very proudly showed me the families decorations for New Year. She was bossing what were clearly her younger siblings around. Chivying them away from the "falangs". These other two girls were similarly attired but being much younger were oblivious to their clothes and focused on having fun. It was so sweet, so cute. It made me glad I was a Dad with similar memories of my two in their kiddie years.
I had a meal that was very nice and amazingly cheap. The whole lot (grilled chicken, papaya salad, sticky rice and a beer Lao) came to 35,000 kip. I walked back to my hotel through the "Fountain Square" I swear to you it is unchanged from 37 years ago! It's just that there are much more weeds and the feeling of unkemptness is very strong. I love it. It has a charm all of it's own, this place. It could never grow on you, there is not enough to sustain it. It will just always be there and that is more than enough.
The main bus trip more than made up for the unpleasantness of the preliminaries. The view on either side started with very flat and dry agricultural lands with hints of big round mountains/hills to my left (East). After about 2 hours we began to see in front of us some even more impressive hills. Finally as the sun was setting we had some scenes of spectacular kharsts that made my mind go into excitement drive at the thought of riding through them in a few days. All the while this was happening there was the entertainment on board! There was a television screen up front that at first had this Laotian Wayne Newton clone (if you have ever seen Wayne Newton you'll know exactly what I mean if not I am very sorry. The image however is shlocking he is fat and chubby with oiled hair buffont style). Anyway this chap was crooning away Laotian pop ABBA style. Every once in a while he would wave his arms around in a wimpish fashion. It was very amusing. After this there was a french film dubbed in Lao which was full of gratuitous violence and mayhem. It was so OTT that you had to laugh. The two Bhuddist priests in front of me were in fits. After this I put on my headphones and finished the journey to the sounds of Ben Harper, John Butler trio, The Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Green Day - "Don't want to be and American Idiot" - can't think why not.
Arrival at Thakhek was the usual struggle to find the tuk tuk of choice and price and to find a hotel. This accomplished, I walked down to the river bank to call back the ghosts of 75'. Boy I got it in spades! You could see clearly the temple Danny and I were standing in front of all those years ago. The spades came with lots of explosions all around me. People were letting off very big firecrackers for Tet/Chinese New Year. The first loud bang transfixed me to the spot. Was I somehow travelling back in time? Had my addled brain done the biggest flashback ever with the cruel twist that I was now on the wrong side of the river? Reality flooded back in with more explosions. These were definitely happy bangs as they were accompanied by laughter and squeals of the kids. I wondered over to a small resteraunt and sat for dinner. I was served by the cutest little Laotian girl. She would have been all of 10 years old. She was dressed in a classic little girl party dress, all frills and ruffles and ribbons. She very proudly showed me the families decorations for New Year. She was bossing what were clearly her younger siblings around. Chivying them away from the "falangs". These other two girls were similarly attired but being much younger were oblivious to their clothes and focused on having fun. It was so sweet, so cute. It made me glad I was a Dad with similar memories of my two in their kiddie years.
I had a meal that was very nice and amazingly cheap. The whole lot (grilled chicken, papaya salad, sticky rice and a beer Lao) came to 35,000 kip. I walked back to my hotel through the "Fountain Square" I swear to you it is unchanged from 37 years ago! It's just that there are much more weeds and the feeling of unkemptness is very strong. I love it. It has a charm all of it's own, this place. It could never grow on you, there is not enough to sustain it. It will just always be there and that is more than enough.
Sunday, 22 January 2012
Sardines go in search of waterfalls and bears
A M/C trip to some waterfalls
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Sunset on the Mekong. Where sardines turn into angels
Being the time when sardines bloom into Angels
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Down and Out in Vientianne Laos
I have to say from the outset that I'm not overly fond of Vientiane. It is not the city I remember. It is very cosmopolitan, it is very hot and sticky and as a whole very unpleasant to me in a way that Luang Prabang wasn't. I have tried to come to terms with the heat without success. I have tried to come to terms with the arrangement of the place without success. I am just about ready to leave and hope that tomorrow will bring this about.
The cost of living is not high but then neither are the conditions. I went to the big market and was shocked how it had changed from the one Danny and I staggered around in 75.It is now a multi storey "mall" populated by electrical, jewellery and clothing stores. If you had a credit card and were sold on consumerism then it would be fine. It left me not cold but sweaty (the A/C couldn't cope). Today is Sunday and most things are not working. Tomorrow is Tet and I expect the same thing. This is a bummer because I may need to organise a bolt back home to Australia. My daughter is sick and I'm waiting for news that will allow me to decide to keep on traveling or bolt home. This also is not a good space to be in a town like this. It makes it even more depressing.
The issues with my daughter have been resolved for now so I'm in a much better position to move on. Watch this space for Tha Kheak. I'm back up there again.
The cost of living is not high but then neither are the conditions. I went to the big market and was shocked how it had changed from the one Danny and I staggered around in 75.It is now a multi storey "mall" populated by electrical, jewellery and clothing stores. If you had a credit card and were sold on consumerism then it would be fine. It left me not cold but sweaty (the A/C couldn't cope). Today is Sunday and most things are not working. Tomorrow is Tet and I expect the same thing. This is a bummer because I may need to organise a bolt back home to Australia. My daughter is sick and I'm waiting for news that will allow me to decide to keep on traveling or bolt home. This also is not a good space to be in a town like this. It makes it even more depressing.
The issues with my daughter have been resolved for now so I'm in a much better position to move on. Watch this space for Tha Kheak. I'm back up there again.
Saturday, 21 January 2012
Friday, 20 January 2012
The frustrations of trying to upload photos on this bloody blog
For some while now I have been trying via data cable to upload photos to this blog. It is the most frustrating and annoying thing I have done in a long while. I have been using a blog loader app on the phone but it is slow and not at all reliable. I spend an hour uplaoding the photos press the print button and no go. I could just scream. Now with the bloody data cable it won't load onto the computer. I am beyond screaming and ready to beat my phone to death!!! i am hoping that by writing it out I will get some succour. maybe.....
Satdines move South. Being the trip from Muang Khua to Nong Khiaw. Some sardines got off at Muang Gnoi Nuea
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The trip to Muang Khua & the spawning of sardines
We see the bus where it all started and then the town where we grew into a shoal.
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