Leaving the lowlands of Hanoi for the Hills of Sapa

Last night I bid a very fond farewell to Hanoi and my dear friends Le and Thanh. It was so good to spend time with them. They are true friends, helpful, friendly and giving of themselves with no cost. I miss them already. I travelled on the night train to Sapa an experience I would be happy to repeat. A very comfortable bed. I woke a couple of times for a visit to the loo and when the train had stopped in some unknown place to do something or other. It appeared at one stage that the train had turned round and we were going in the opposite direction. Who knows it may have been my sleep addled head. Lao Chai at 5am was a confusing blast. I pity the unsuspecting tourist who has nothing organised. I think I would have found it extremely confusing. As it was everyone around me knew what to do and I just followed.

Sapa seems continually fogbound at this time of the year. I got a few inspiring vistas of enormous mountains and deep deep valleys but they were always fleeting as if they wnted to tease and tantalise. The place seems to be on the vertical with no flat areas at all. To walk out into the streets is to attract a small crowd of very friendly Hmong tribeswomen. Are they black, white, red or flower? Who can say. The one thing is that they are persistent. I have no intention of buying from them so thier efforts to engage only illicit conversation which for me is fine. I sincerely believe that respect should be shown in all situations, so I happily converse and after about 15 minutes or several streets they seem to give up and fall away with a hopeful "see you later, maybe you remember me and buy from me later" My answer is always "I cannot promise".Maybe I'm the most unsatisfactory tourist in Sapa.

The streets here are very confusing. Nothing goes straight and there are no grids.My sense of direction, usually infallable is stressed to the max here.If I did not remember where I came from then I would get helplessly lost.The map is little help as it is as confusing as reality. When you are walking in peasoup fog it means you can't see landmarks and get a perspective. Guides would be very useful here if not a little expensive and so not an option for this little black duck.The people are totally engaging so I don't mind the problems.

Tomorrow is Saturday and the big market day. I plan to go early and then hire a motorbike to travel around the area and look at a few villages and whatnot. On Sunday I am contemplating a tour to Bac Ha for another market that is recommended $15 (without lunch). I think I can just about afford it. It depends how much the bike costs. Check out the photos..